Ischia, a volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples, is as close to paradise as you can get. I spent a few days there in August with my husband; it was our first time on the island, but hopefully not the last.

While less glittering than nearby Capri and Positano, it's still a sun-soaked haven characterised by winding streets, charming towns, saturated bougainvillaea and crystal swimming coves that are — thanks to volcanic activity — rich in healing minerals. Its Italian glamour without the heaving tourism, and a destination that should be on everyone's European summer itinerary.

Whether you're already planning or just looking for some inspiration, my advice on where to stay, swim, eat and relax on the island below.

How to get to Ischia

The easiest way to get to Ischia is by ferry. During the high season, hydrofoils and ferries depart all day from Naples and Pozzuoli, plus options from Sorrento, Salerno, Capri and Amalfi. I was coming from Ponza, which meant a ferry to the mainland, just near Rome, before a transfer to Naples and then the ferry. It was a long travel day but what's a holiday without one? If you're travelling during the summer, definitely pre book your ferry tickets, too.

Where to stay in Ischia

There's countless places to stay in Ischia, from charming BnBs to luxurious hotels. If you want to indulge your senses, it has to be Mezzatore Hotel. Perched on the cliff side away from the main ports and towns, it's heaven on Earth and sexy enough to make Slim Aarons jealous. The interiors are refined but have a Mediterranean ease about them, and the restaurants are incredible. On the terrace, you'll enjoy the best aperitif of your life, while the private swimming spots will save you battling both crowds and rocky outcrops. An Italian fever dream straight out of a scene from The Talented Mr Ripley (because fun fact, the film was partially filmed on the island).

We also spent a few nights at Paradise Relais Villa Janto and while the rooms are much more modest, the sweeping views were a true highlight. It had a beautiful rooftop that plays Italian disco music on the weekends, if you feel like letting your hair down. As Ischia is a big island, I recommend moving hotels once if you're staying more than five or so nights. It makes it easier to try different restaurants, too.

Where to eat in Ischia

Some of the most memorable meals I had on my recent trip through Italy were in Ischia. Here's my list:

• Mezzatore Hotel for a sunset aperitif.
• A long lunch on the terrace at La Torre Restaurant also comes highly recommended by me.
• Lunch at Bar Ristorante Lido da Marie — no fuss, barefoot seaside dining at its finest. Order the fresh fish and squid. The house wine cost us about $8, and came in a hand-painted jug. 
• Dinner at Il Focolare. This was such a highlight, we ate so much (order the rabbit) and ended the night sharing a drink with the chefs. Turns out, one used to head up the kitchen at Buon Riccardo, right across the street from the RUSSH offices.
• Dinner at La Vigna Di Alberto was another memorable meal. The restaurant sits at the top of the hill (get a taxi — the drive wasn't for the weak) and the food just comes out depending on what they have on hand. It's overgrown and rambling, like sitting in a farmhouse. Every dish was exceptional and the meal finished with multiple shots of homemade limoncello. That Italian hospitality!

My time in Ischia

Of my entire month in Italy, Ischia was the busiest. The island is propositioned as a quieter alternative to nearby Positano and Capri — where the locals spend their summer — but I wouldn't call it quiet... Regardless, it's a beautiful island and because of its size, there's lots to do. I recommend a motorbike or scooter as the easiest means to get around. We mostly lazed around our hotels, but did spend a day at Cava Grado beach (near the glittering S'ant Andrea region) and long lunch at Lido da Marie. It was perfect. Another highly recommended day out is to hire a boat (it's easy to drive your own, or you can pay for a skipper). Pack some provisions and you'll get to live La Dolce Vita without the crows.

More postcards from paradise, below