Beauty

Everything I’ve learned about hair loss and hair health

Over my years working in women's lifestyle journalism, particularly in the beauty space, I've had the chance to write a number of articles about hair health and interview several experts on hair loss.

It was always an interesting topic that I was deeply invested in. But at the same time, thinning hair was a foreign concept. That is, until it happened to me in 2021 and 2022. After battling a series of consecutive COVID cases, worsening PCOS, severe anxiety and crippling panic attacks, clumps of my hair began falling out. I ended up with a bald patch on my crown that you could see from a distance and deep Vs around my hairline. I'd always had thick and voluminous hair. Softly curled and naturally highlighted. It went from being one favourite features to one of my deepest insecurities.

I eventually got back on track. After a few months of awkward baby hairs, my hair grew back. But the experience taught my how truly emotionally and mentally challenging the experience of thinning hair can be. I also learned that there's no one silver bullet. The solution to hair loss is typically multi-layered and requires a holistic approach. But there are a few things you can start doing today to thicken up your hair if you're experiencing the same thing.

Below is a culmination of half a decade of beauty writing; all the hair health and preventing hair loss advice I've received from experts and researched on my own.

 

1. Use anti-dandruff shampoo

Dermatologist Dr. Neera Nathan, is a Harvard-trained specialist and she says anti-dandruff shampoos are a good place to start in combatting excessive hair fall. "I recommend using an anti dandruff shampoo (even if you don’t have dandruff) like Nizoral or Head & Shoulders as these have been shown to decrease hair fall."

The reason for this is because anti-dandruff shampoos can assist in treating some of the conditions that lead to or exacerbate excessive hair fall. They can assist with scalp health too.

I've had another expert also recommend anti-microbial shampoo too.

 

2. Wash your hair more often – not less

I thought I was being so clever only washing my hair once a week. I believed that washing your hair increased hair fall – so, I could reduce how much hair I lost if I shampooed infrequently. But in actual fact, hair that is ready to fall out, will fall out anyway.

Excessive oil build up can also lead to further hair thinning This is because a scalp that has oil-build-up will not grow new hair as fast as a clean, healthy one. Washing more often allows your scalp to be in its best condition to grow new hair.

"The action of shampooing loosens ‘dead’ hairs, removes dead skin cells, bacteria, sweat, oil, pollution and odours to name a few," explained Lisa Caddy, Global Training Director and Consultant Trichologist of Philip Kingsley when I spoke to her. "That shampooing doesn’t make your hair fall out!"

This doesn't mean you should over-wash of course. Over-washing can dry out your scalp. Instead, wash your hair when you start to notice it's looking dirty. Don't try to get through the next few days with dry shampoo.

 

3. Speak to your doctor and get your hormones checked

When our Beauty Editor Emily Algar went through her own hair loss journey, one of the first things she did was speak to a doctor and have her hormones checked. It helped her a great deal.

In the depths of my hair thinning battle, I had yet to receive my PCOS diagnosis. It was only through the combined efforts of my GP, endocrinologist and dietician that I ended up discovering my PCOS and finding an answer to my hair loss. The solution involved medication to manage the PCOS, a stress management plan and a new, fuller diet plan to combat chronic under eating (and some other poor diet advice I'd previously received).

For both of us, the ultimate solution came through the guidance of a number of medical professionals. Because there are so many different conditions that can cause hair loss, you should always speak to a doctor if you are worried about how much hair you are losing.

 

4. Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp

This is an important one. Scalp condition or even just things like inflammation and oil build up can reduce hair growth and increase hair fall. A healthy scalp is critical to hair health.

"Having a healthy scalp is fundamental to optimising the hair and ensuring you have your healthiest hair ever. The scalp is the bedrock of hair growth," said Lisa Caddy, Consultant Trichologist of Philip Kingsley.

Pay attention to how your scalp looks. Is it red? Is it flaky? Is it dry and itchy? If you have an underlying problem with your scalp, solving this issue can contribute to fuller, shinier and healthier hair.

 

5. Massage can help promote new growth

There is significant evidence that suggests scalp massage promotes hair growth.

"Every hair follicle is embedded in the scalp and has its own blood supply, so the hair is a function of the skin!" said Lisa Caddy, Consultant Trichologist of Philip Kingsley.

The link here is that massage increases blood circulation to the follicle and can also stimulate the follicle and improvement in hair growth.

 

6. Do not keep your hair in a bun or ponytail every day

Putting continuous tension on the hair can have both long and short term consequences. Tension can actually lead to something called ‘tension alopecia’, so just be mindful of wearing pulled back styles and try not to do these every day. If you have to, use a clip rather than an elastic

 

7. Heat, sun and chlorine damage can cause your hair to break – but won't impact overall growth

We know that hot tools and things like pool chlorine can dry your and cause it to break mid-length. But this is very different to excessive hair fall and hair loss which starts at the scalp.

When I spoke to trichologist Chelcey Sallinger, she said that the way sun and pool chlorine could potentially contribute to hair loss is if you're not adequately washing your hair after. "It is essential to wash your hair after you have been in the sun or water. The combination of hair product, dirt and sebum can lead to many unwanted scalp issues, impacting your hair from root to tip," she said.

 

8. Make sure you're adequately nourishing your body with food – deficiencies cause hair fall

Restrictive diets can lead to hair loss. If your body isn't being correctly fuelled, hair loss is one of the first things you might notice.

There are a number of factors that link the two – including stress – but one key factor is that nutrient deficiencies can cause your hair to fall out.

"Vitamin D and iron deficiency both can cause hair loss. I always recommend vitamin D level testing and ferritin levels (which measure iron stores) especially for anyone experiencing diffuse hair shedding," said dermatologist Dr. Neera Nathan when I spoke with her.

 

9. Rosemary oil has shown some promise – but Minoxidil is still the gold standard

There are indeed a few limited studies that show rosemary oil could potentially be beneficial for hair growth. But there is far more research and evidence to show that Minoxidil is still the most effective topical treatment for promoting hair growth and minimising loss.

 

10. Your brush matters

The wrong hair brush can affect your hair density. You need something that can detangle without pulling or ripping. I have naturally 2c hair and so it can get very knotty and the wrong brush can pull out chunks of my hair when brushing. It’s important to get a detangling brush that is flexible for non-coily hair-types or more rigid for coily hair.

 

11. Supplements and serums should be used on a case-by-case basis

Since hair density and hair loss is a specific and complex issue, supplements should be used on a case by case basis.

"Stress – both physical stress, like childbirth, and emotional stress, like loss of a loved one – can cause hair loss. Hormone changes and inflammation can also trigger hair loss in women. Then there are conditions like alopecia and PCOS," said dermatologist Dr. Neera Nathan.

It means that products like vitamin D supplements or scalp treatments like Minoxidil can have varying levels success depending on the root cause of your hair loss. It's better to first speak to a doctor to understand why you might be experiencing hair loss and go from there.

Dr. Neera Nathan said when we spoke that an "everything and the kitchen sink" approach is often more effective than any one treatment. She recommends as a first point of call "taking care of your personal health, eating well, sleeping, avoiding tight hair styles, avoiding chemical treatments or excess heat styling."

But she also said solutions like "anti-dandruff, hair growth shampoos and topicals, low level laser therapy (LLLT) combs & helmets, dermarollers, oral medications like minoxidil, spironolactone and finasteride, in office platelet rich plasma injections," could also be helpful depending on your situation.

 

12. It’s not your fault

You can be using all the right products, taking all the right supplements and doing all the right things, and hair loss can just happen. It’s likely not something you did.

Hair density issues are often deeply complex. It's not because you used a hair dryer one too many times. Try to be kind to yourself and don’t assign blame.

 

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