Dr Dennis Gross on how to fix pigmentation and dark spots

WORDS Emily Algar PUBLISHED Thu, 29 May 2025 - 3:15 pm

When it comes to skincare concerns, pigmentation and dark spots often top the list — visible reminders of hormonal shifts, previous skin conditions like acne or stretched-out Australian summers, minus the adequate sun protection (the aftermath of which tends to show up years down the track). The secondary part of the issue is that pigmentation, dark spots and discolouration can be incredibly difficult to treat. It's a complex skin concern, and one that requires a multi-step approach — a mix of topical ingredients, lifestyle habits and professional treatments.

Few experts know the landscape (and the secrets) better than Dr Dennis Gross. A board-certified dermatologist and founder of his very cult, 'iykyk' eponymous skincare line, he's a wealth of knowledge when it comes to skin health, from product formulation to in-office lasers. On a recent stop in Sydney, 'RUSSH' caught up with Dr. Gross to discuss brighter, more even-toned skin) because it's possible. The interview, below.

What is pigmentation?

There's three main different types of pigmentation problems: the first is melasma, which is common during pregnancy. It’s a hormonal issue, and looks patchy across the forehead, cheeks or upper lip. You can usually put a couple fingers over it and it disappears — that's how it distributes on the face.

There’s pigmentation that’s freckly, those are sunspots. And those obviously come from UV exposure. And then there's the type of pigmentation you see in people who have it as a result of something like acne, called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It occurs when some sort of injury darkens or discolours once healed.

How does pigmentation form, because a lot of people on't realise that it's happening within the skin long because it's visible?

Pigmentation doesn’t just appear, it’s structural and is built within layers of the skin, step by step. It’s like passing a baton in a relay race. It begins with a molecule called melanin, that is ‘transferred’, moving up from deeper layers to the visible surface. There are other factors involved, but Tyrosinase is one of the main enzymes that triggers this process, and the melanin over-production that leads to visibly discoloured skin.

So what skincare ingredients can help with pigmentation and dark spots?

And at the end of the day, it really doesn’t matter what type of type of pigmentation an individual has, or if there’s more than one causing factor. The antidote is to stop the overproduction of melanin.

Vitamin C is the gold standard, because it literally breaks the assembly line production of the excess pigment. It blocks the production of Tyrosinase, preventing it from manufacturing too much melanin. I think it’s a brilliant ingredient and it’s always my number one recommendation. I have a few products available depending on skin type and other issues. Our serum is pretty incredible, and our oil-free moisturiser is another great option.

On that note, why do so many people find they struggle to use Vitamin C as an ingredient?

Truthfully, it’s quite difficult to formulate a great Vitamin C product because the ingredient is irritating. In my opinion, you need to use other supporting ingredients. I’ve found that combining Vitamin C with Lactic Acid is really powerful because the Lactic Acid helps to protect and rehydrate the moisture barrier. It also improves ingredient penetration so you’re getting an optimal dose where it’s needed. Lactic Acid itself also helps to break down balls of melanin. They’re woven tightly like yarn — Lactic Acid pulls at the threads.

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Amazing. What else do you love?

Liquorice extract is another one for pigmentation. It’s an antioxidant shown to prevent Tyrosinase uptake. It’s also in the Vitamin C+Lactic 15% Vitamin C Firm & Bright Serum. If you press that serum into the skin and seal it in with moisturiser, I promise you will see results.

What about Retinol for pigmentation and dark spots?

Retinol definitely helps with pigmentation, but in a different way. Because it’s a multi-benefit ingredient, it will simultaneously smooth wrinkles and improve skin texture. It leaves the complexion looking firmer and more uniform.

What sort of professional treatments are you giving to patients wanting brighter, more uniform skin tone?

There’s more than one way to attack hyperpigmentation in clinic, depending on the patient. I think peels are fantastic, as long as they don't throw your skin off balance. For at-home use, the Alpha-Beta Peel is such a good one. It exfoliates and disintegrates extra surface pigment.

In my practice, we often couple professional peels with lasers. But I want to be clear, there are different lasers used in this industry now. Some I agree with, others I disagree with. Some lasers are specifically for hyperpigmentation, while others are more generalised. An ablative C02 laser for example temporarily destroys the skin. The downtime is significant. But they’re often used on patients with pigmentation. I personally think this is a mistake. The pigment will come back. And what’s worse is the laser is triggering further inflammation. It’s very destructive. Who you see and the lasers they use are extremely important when it comes to fixing dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

Any other less-than-obvious mistakes you see people make within their skincare routines when itcomes to pigmentation?

Anything that burns, stings or triggers redness is not a good idea, especially if you have pigmentation. I always recommend that those with discolouration consider their skin to be sensitive when selecting products.

What about dark circles under the eye?

Dark circles can be a form of pigmentation, or it can be due to thinning skin and visible blood flow underneath. I actually made the Dermafusions Eye Cream to target both: it firms, it plumps, it hydrates and reduces inflammation.

Last question — is at-home LED light therapy good for pigmentation?

Because red LED reduces inflammation in the skin, it’s really good for redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation especially. If you’re consistent, it will reduce the likelihood and appearance of pigmentation deposits around scarring.