When a new creative mind takes over the reigns of a fashion house – especially one as beloved as Gucci – it's natural to wonder how they will interpret its codes. And a year into his tenure at Gucci, Demna has arrived at a conclusion: Gucci is not one thing. It is an assortment of characters, contradictions and desires, all existing under the same name.

For spring summer 2027, the designer presented what he calls his first "complete vision" for the house. Appropriately, he did so inside a purpose-built Gucci store. Milan’s sprawling convention centre was transformed into a fully realised retail space, with marble, velvet seating, clothing racks, accessories and shoes arranged as though the doors had just opened on a new Gucci flagship. The setting offered a neat introduction to Demna's thinking. Rather than presenting one definitive idea of the Gucci customer, the collection suggested a wardrobe broad enough to accommodate several – and the ability to try on, and buy into, whichever resonates.

It began with a rather demure menswear section, comprising monochromatic lounge suits and trench coats, alongside a few preppier qaurter zips and rugby jerseys. For womenswear, Gucci's equestrian history was the starting point. Jodhpurs were tucked into tall riding boots and paired with fitted jackets, while leather accessories and belted silhouettes brought a sense of old-world polish. From there, the mood shifted towards a more Milanese kind of dressing, dominated by button down dresses cinched firmly at the waist, accessorised with oversized sunglasses and perfectly coiffed hair.

But before you forget this is Demna's world we're occupying, things took a slightly less proper turn. Menswear gave way to tartan kilts and bombers in high-shine leather, alongside baggy denim and popped collars. There were plenty of familiar Gucci signatures, too, from the horsebit hardware to leather goods and loafers, but Demna wasn't interested in simply reproducing them. Instead, he played with them, whether through proportions or styling – think, ultra low-rise belts (accompanying even lower-rise jeans), horsebit logos hanging around necks on silver chains, and dramatic eyeliner.

The collection eventually moved into eveningwear, where the mood became more overtly glamorous. Sparkling mini dresses gave way to long, fluid gowns, some sheer, some cut away at the torso and others falling close to the body. It was a reminder that for all the talk of heritage, Gucci has never been afraid of a little spectacle.

And that, really, seems to be Demna's point. Gucci doesn't need to choose between its different sides. It can be refined and eccentric, traditional and provocative, polished and a little bit strange. There is room for all of it.