Gucci’s Autumn Winter 2026 collection signalled renewal not just in name, but in intent. Titled 'Primavera' (which translates to 'Spring' in English), the collection marked newly-appointed creative director Demna’s sophomore outing for the House — and his first physical runway at the helm of Gucci.

The setting for the occasion was monumental, museum-like space lined with marble statues in Milan. Demna has spoken about being moved by Botticelli’s Primavera, and that influence carried through — in particular, via a clear focus on the body: how clothes frame it, follow it and, at times, expose it.

The opening look was a seamless white minidress in hosiery fabric, which set a clean, direct tone for the 82 looks to follow. From there, silhouettes stayed close-cut and controlled. Jackets came form-fitting and shrunken, while low-cut leather trousers verged into the territory of leggings. Tailoring was fluid, almost liquid-like, in materials that shimmered with each step. Dresses and skirts hugged the body, occasionally slashed with thigh-high slits, and paired back with the brand's iconic monogrammed stockings.

Feather-trimmed bombers and plush faux-fur outerwear added texture to the collection, while eveningwear leant slightly more dramatic. Mini dresses, matching sets, and gowns were rendered in glittering fabrics, and occasionally shoes that matched. By contrast, several of the final menswear looks came without shoes at all — as though they had perhaps been lost or tossed away at the end of a night out. The beauty added to the drama of it all, with models' eyes washed with expertly-smudged black mascara, and the kind of perfectly messed up hair that can only be created from a night on the dance floor.

While Demna might be signalling a new era for the House, there were several codes that remained unchanged. The final look — a backless black gown revealing a diamond-studded GG thong, worn by none other than Kate Moss — was a knowing wink to Gucci’s more provocative era, without feeling like a direct throwback. Similarly, accessories remained central to the new season story.  The House’s signature Gucci Bamboo 1947 returned with a sleeker shape and a reworked handle, while archival minaudières were updated to fit modern essentials. Footwear blurred lines too, from streamlined sneakers to softened loafers designed for ease.