In June 2022, shortly after Australia reopened its international borders following a two-year closure through the pandemic, I made quick plans to travel to Europe. As a travel writer and curator (@_itsbeautifulhere on Instagram), the urge to be back on the road again was strong. My vague plan was to start in Greece and then travel from there. But I arrived in Athens and I couldn’t seem to leave. Something felt different to me. The city seemed to be going through some kind of renaissance.
Athens had always captivated me, but not to the extent of wanting to live here—until that moment 3 years ago. I was meeting countless interesting, driven, and creative Athenians, many of whom had returned from abroad during the pandemic, bringing with them a renewed energy that infused the city. And I was feeling inspired. There were lots of exciting things happening, and a strong sense of opportunity. The energy shift was palpable.
I ended up spending four months in Greece, only returning to Australia briefly to sort out my visa before officially moving to Athens in January 2023. Over the past two and a half years, my love for this chaotic, ancient city has only deepened. There is so much beauty in the chaos. I find inspiration in the light, the people, the music, and the Greek way of life. I love how ancient rituals and traditions blend seamlessly with modern life here.
Choosing my favourite places to eat, drink, sleep, and explore is no easy task, as I have so many beloved spots. Nevertheless, here are some of my top picks in and around my neighbourhood...
TO CAFFEINATE: RULE OF 4M
Christos and his charming hole-in-the-wall coffee shop, Rule of 4m (named for the “4Ms of Espresso”: miscela, the coffee blend; macinazione, the grind; macchina, the machine; and mano, the skill of the barista), quickly became a second home to me after I arrived in Athens.
On a never-ending quest to find the best coffee wherever I go, I had heard about 4m on my travels. When I first met Christos and mentioned that I was from Melbourne, he shared that much of his knowledge about specialty coffee came from watching YouTube videos on the Melbourne coffee scene. He won me over immediately. Since then, this tiny coffee shop and Christos' exceptional caffeine brews have become a constant source of comfort and ritual for me every day for the past two and half years.
When I’m not travelling, I visit at least once or twice a day. I’ve made some lovely friendships in this petite 2x4m space, simply by pulling up a stool. Rule of 4m is much more than just a good cup of coffee, it is a community. Having this cosy nook just seconds from my home makes me love my neighbourhood even more. For me, this is the best coffee in Athens.
WEEKLY RITUAL: LAIKI
The “laiki” is a cherished aspect of daily life in Athens. Known locally as the “laiki agora” (which translates to “the people’s market”), it offers a really lovely way to engage with the rhythms of local life. Held once a week in nearly every neighborhood across Athens and Piraeus, with over 195 markets taking place each week, these open-air markets showcase local farmers and producers. Visiting my local laiki in Pagrati on a Friday morning has become a favourite ritual of mine.
Every Friday, for a few hours, Archimidous Street comes alive with stallholders selling copious amounts of fresh fruits, vegetables, olives, meats, fish, flowers, and other Greek products. The main reason for my weekly visit though is to see George at his fresh flower stall, where I stock up on blooms to brighten my apartment. George has been running this stall for four years, continuing a family tradition: his father, Manolis, managed it for 30 years, and his grandfather—also named George—held it for an another 30 years before that.
Another favourite laiki of mine is the one on Kallidromiou Street in Exarchia, which takes place every Saturday morning. It’s definitely worth a visit if you find yourself in Athens over a weekend.
TO EAT BREAKFAST OR LUNCH: AKRA
Akra, another one of my favourite local spots, is just a two-minute walk from home. This charming establishment boasts a minimalist yet cosy dining room and operates as both a bakery and a restaurant, run by acclaimed chefs Giannis Loukakis and Spiros Pediaditak. I love stopping by in the morning to pick up a loaf of Akra’s sourdough bread or a bunch of their delicious pastries. It is a beautiful place to meet friends for breakfast, as their menu is both interesting and delicious. I also love bringing visitors from out of town for a very long lunch, the space is warm and welcoming. Akra’s ever-changing menu is centered on seasonal ingredients, with many of the dishes prepared right in front of you on a wood-fired stove. The impressive wine list features a variety of local Greek wines, and the service is consistently excellent.
TO EAT: TAVERNA TON FILON
Not exactly close to my home, but 1000% worth the short cab ride. Taverna Ton Filon in the Kolonos neighborhood captured my heart from the minute it opened in late 2023. The warm and generous hospitality from co-owner and maître d’, Giorgos Kontorizos (also the sommelier), is truly unmatched, and the setting is utterly charming. This is a very unpretentious and friendly Greek taverna dining experience. The kitchen is expertly led by Chef Yiannis Mousios, formerly of Seychelles, and the menu changes daily, inspired by the freshest ingredients. Be sure to try their handmade sausage (so good), and for dessert, you can't miss the chocolate mousse. One of my favourite little touches is the individually wrapped homemade chocolates you receive as you leave. This is my favourite place in the city.
TO DRINK: GALAXY BAR
My favourite bar in Athens, closely followed by Santarosa, is Galaxy, which quickly became my go-to spot for a Negroni when I arrived in 2022. With a legacy spanning over 50 years, Galaxy is an Athens institution, often frequented by the city’s literati, including journalists, writers, and creatives. For any Melbourne readers, Galaxy reminds me somewhat of the iconic Pellegrini's, which opened its doors in 1954—a cherished spot in the centre of Melbourne that I have been visiting for more than 45 years, even as a babe in my mother’s arms. Both places evoke a profound sense of nostalgia.
Nestled down a “stoa” (arcade) in the heart of the city, just a 15-minute walk from my home, Galaxy exudes an incredible charm. Its decor has remained largely unchanged since its inception, with many old photographs of the bar’s regulars adorning the walls. It's the perfect place for a late-night Negroni, expertly crafted by Stelios, my favourite barman. The small plate of snacks—think small pieces of buttered toast topped with cheese and peanuts—are almost as coveted as the drinks themselves. In fact, I know people who visit Galaxy solely for the snacks. Galaxy opens at 5 p.m. and stays open until the last patron leaves. This is an Athens institution that I adore.
TO STAY: OKUPA
Okupa is a new addition to the hotel scene, having opened in the Athens neighborhood of Psiri in late 2024. This multi-purpose urban hub features boutique hotel-style rooms, a ground-floor restaurant, a listening bar, and a co-working space. Drawing inspiration from the Spanish word “ocupar,” meaning "to occupy," Okupa exemplifies the innovative use of space. Every decision made here reflects its mission to foster connections between communities across borders and bridge the gap between locals and travellers. With warm, friendly, and approachable hospitality, Okupa is ideally situated for those looking to explore the city.
The hotel also boasts a charming rooftop swimming pool—quite a rarity for city hotels in Athens—as well as an impressive events program, which includes ballet and barre classes led by professional dancer Maria Chroni. One of my favourite aspects of Okupa is its thoughtfully curated playlist; co-owner Georges emphasises that every track is chosen with intention, ensuring guests are treated to beautiful tunes at all times. This attention to detail extends to the talented rotating DJs they feature (including my favourite, George Rallis).
TO DO: WALKING TOUR WITH MICHAEL PATMANIDIS
My number one recommendation for any visitor to Athens is to book a private walking tour of the Acropolis with Michael Patmanidis. This is a must-do. Michael is an incredibly passionate and kind archaeologist and licensed guide, with a true passion for guiding. For over 15 years, Michael has led tours all over Greece, but as a born-and-raised Athenian, guiding at the Acropolis and other major sights and museums of the city is where he feels most at home. What makes Michael’s tours unique is his ability to blend history and archaeology with philosophy, hence creating an experience that is thought-provoking and meaningful as well as fun and informative. He is great with any age group, including children.
TO SEE: CAN GALLERY
If art is your thing, I definitely recommend a visit to CAN Gallery. Located in the heart of Athens, CAN Gallery is a leading contemporary art space known for its dedication to showcasing both emerging and established talent. Founded in 2012 by art historian and art consultant Christina Androulidaki, the gallery recently relocated to a large, two-floor space near Omonoia Square, just steps away from the Athens Archaeological Museum. The new location features a 90-square-meter project space, formerly a post-war bunker used by the SAS (Special Air Service) of the British Army.
Renowned for its commitment to innovative, thought-provoking, and boundary-pushing art, CAN Gallery has made its mark both locally and internationally. Androulidaki, with her discerning eye for talent, has curated a diverse range of exhibitions that challenge and engage audiences. The gallery's focus on nurturing emerging artists provides them with a platform to share unique perspectives, offering essential guidance, support, and exposure. In addition to representing contemporary voices, CAN Gallery also honours artistic legacies, including the estates of Dimitris Condos and Celia Daskopoulou, bridging generations and styles while maintaining a forward-thinking approach to art curation.
TO MEET: THEODORA KOUMOUNDOURO (ARTHENS); AND STELLA PANAGOPOULOU AND VALISIA GOTSI (2WO+1NE=2)
The desire to experience new art is ever-present, even while traveling. This passion inspired Theodora Koumoundourou to launch ARTHENS, Athens' only luxury art tour service. Koumoundourou founded ARTHENS to provide bespoke experiences and tailor-made tours for collectors and art enthusiasts visiting the city who wish to delve deeper into the local contemporary art scene. ARTHENS combines elements of art tourism with art consulting, offering curated explorations of the best contemporary art exhibitions, artists' studios, and galleries Athens has to offer. With personalised service, Koumoundourou and her team facilitate an effortless exploration of the city’s vibrant art landscape, enriching your aesthetic appreciation with fresh artistic talent.
ARTHENS also offer an art consulting service, a way to help support the local art scene while at the same time, promoting cultural tourism in Greece. This spring and summer, Koumoundourou will be collaborating with St.George Lycabettus Hotel located in the centre of Athens, renewing their artistic and aesthetic identity through two group art shows at their gallery space.
Also, I highly recommend scheduling an appointment to visit the atelier of 2WO+1NE=2 (2+1=2), Greece’s leading ethically designed fashion brand. Founded in 2017 by Stella Panagopoulou and Valisia Gotsi, 2WO+1NE=2 is motivated by a commitment to creating sustainable, tailored ready-to-wear pieces rather than simply following trends. The brand focuses on producing long-lasting garments through local manufacturing, utilising exclusively French and bound seams along with natural fibers to enhance the durability of each item.
Inspired by nomadism, each collection is dedicated to a different city around the globe, drawing from its art scene, architecture, cinema, music, and the people that inhabit it. 2WO+1NE=2 transforms the beauty and uniqueness of each location into edgy collections by incorporating local craftsmanship techniques and aesthetic influences. The brand aims to challenge conservatism and conventionality, envisioning clothing that functions not only as everyday items but also as multidimensional structures. Some of the brand's enduring inspirations come from various art movements across the artistic landscape, including Expressionism, Surrealism, Dadaism, and Constructivism. With backgrounds in Science and Philosophy, both founders are subconsciously drawn to elements related to their academic interests.
I am thrilled to share that I will be collaborating with 2WO+1NE=2 on their upcoming Spring/Summer '25 collection, titled "Melbourne." Stella and Valisia invited me to co-design a small capsule collection inspired by the city of my choice, and I naturally chose my beloved hometown of Melbourne. Stay tuned for the launch of our collaboration later this month.
