Jonathan Anderon's latest outing for the House of Dior landed in Paris this week at the Musée Rodin – a presentation whose anticipation by the fashion community felt impossible to ignore. Here's everything you need to know about the show location, collection, guests and inspiration...
The location
Staged at the Musée Rodin, the setting alone signalled that this wouldn’t be about clean conclusions or polite menswear evolution. Anderson seemed more interested in asking questions than answering them, and he asked a lot.
The clothes
The idea of a "new aristocracy" hovered over the collection, though stripped of wealth or pedigree and rebuilt around eccentricity, performance, and a certain cultivated awkwardness. Sequinned camisoles, skinny jeans, snakeskin boots, and overtly artificial, neon-yellow wigs opened the show with theatrical bravado. From there, things only got stranger: last season's cropped Bar jackets with exposed midriffs returned, accompanied by polo shirts adorned with glittering epaulettes, bloated parkas, and plenty of denim skinny jeans (sorry to the haters, it seem Anderson is a fan of the trend coming back).
As has become synonymous with Anderson, proportions were constantly in flux – hourglass jackets pinched in the wrong places, trousers that warped the body’s outline, coats overloaded with fur, scarves, or texture.
What made the show compelling was its refusal to smooth itself out. Anderson wasn’t chasing cohesion so much as momentum.
The inspiration...
French fashion designer Paul Poiret was a clear historical anchor, but Anderson didn’t treat him reverently. Instead, Poiret’s ease and theatricality were filtered through more punk impulses, prewar silhouettes, and flashes of late-20th-century subculture.
The guests...
Chinese actor Yu Shi Yosh was in attendance, alongside Jamie Dornan, Stray Kids’ Hyunjin, Wagner Moura, Robert Pattinson, SZA, Lewis Hamilton, House ambassador Mia Goth, Kit Connor, director and frequent collaborator Luca Guadagnino, model Mona Tougaard, LV menswear creative director Pharrel Williams, White Lotus star Sam Nivola,
