For Dior's Fall Winter 25 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri underscored fashion as a vehicle for endless transformation. Her muse? Virginia Woolf’s radical 1928 novel Orlando. Through the lens of this tale of fluidity and metamorphosis, Chiuri explored the idea of fashion as a pathway for personal and cultural evolution.
The show opened with a dimly-lit runway, entirely bare, save for a single hanging swing. Slowly, from the darkness, a barefoot model took to the stage, perching on top of the swing as a voice, seemingly from nowhere, ushered the beginning of the House's latest chapter — literally, with the words "Once upon a time..."
With this cue, Chiuri embarked on an exploration of pieces that formed a repertoire of possibilities. The opening look, worn by the swinging model, began this story. At first glance, it was merely a simple white shirtdress. On closer inspection, it was laden with symbolism, pointing directly to the protagonist of Woolf's novel — a young nobleman in the Elizabethan era who transforms into a woman — and the basis of an outfit freed from gender conventions.
Pieces that similarly defied gender stereotypes followed suit. Removable collars, for example, serve as a reflection of how identity can shift and adapt over time. The visual language of the show, choreographed like a theatrical performance by Robert Wilson, emphasised this sense of transformation. The scene transitions from dark to light, alongside the imagery of rocks, craters, and an iceberg, further evoking a world in flux.
Beyond the narrative of Orlando, the collection was steeped in rich historical references. A newly-minted version of the iconic J'adore Dior t-shirt, first designed by John Galliano, was layered in Chiuri's collection under technical jackets, corseted dresses, and faux fur-lined coats. As the collection — and the story it told — progressed, there was also an increasing dialogue between form and fluidity. Hyper-structured coats contrasted with loose, semi-sheer shirts, while intricate cut-out and appliqué embroidery sung out beneath sleek technical outerwear.
As always, Chiuri celebrated femininity not as a static concept but as a dynamic force, constantly evolving. By embracing transformation, Dior's Fall Winter 25 collection offered a vision of a wardrobe that, much like its wearer, is ever-changing, ever-relevant, and ever-inspired.
