Haute couture may be fashion's most rarefied discipline, but at Matthieu Blazy's CHANEL, there's still room for a little whimsy. For his sophomore haute couture collection at the house, Blazy filled the Grand Palais with towering beanstalks and larger-than-life flowers to remind us that even the highest form of fashion can still feel playful.

Blazy's inspiration came from an unexpected place: a copy of Les Fées discovered in Gabrielle Chanel's apartment library. From its pages emerged references to Jack and the Beanstalk, Goldilocks and the Three Bears and other childhood tales, reimagined through the painstaking craftsmanship of the house's haute couture ateliers.

The opening look set the tone. A familiar CHANEL skirt suit was rendered almost weightless in openwork guipure, threaded with beads so as to subtly evoke magic beans, before giving way to sheer mousseline, botanical embroidery and delicate floral appliqué. Elsewhere, vines crept across jackets and dresses, while hidden details rewarded those paying close attention: sleeping bear minaudières, hen-shaped bags, flower-trimmed sleeves, and buttons that transformed from ducklings into swans. The shoes were arguably were this philosophy best came to be. Models took to the runway in CHANEL's iconic sling backs, though several pairs had the heel replaced by something playful: a golden egg, a fairy, a butterfly, even a pea pod filled with pearls.

Beneath the fairytale references was a collection that never lost sight of the woman wearing it. Blazy resisted the temptation to create costume, instead grounding the fantasy of each piece in beautifully cut tailoring, his now-signature fluid dresses, and a plethora of luxurious separates. Even the most elaborate pieces felt remarkably wearable, with the magic hidden in the details rather than overtly obvious.

Blazy once again assembled a cast that reflected the breadth of women he is intent on dressing, continuing his commitment to diversity while establishing a recognisable CHANEL family. Familiar faces returned to the runway, including Awar Odhiang and Bhavitha Mandava, as well as Australian model Chiara Dorward. Blazy's casting reinforces the idea that couture is at its most compelling when it feels lived in — worn by women with distinct personalities rather than characters in a fairy tale.