Fashion / Watches & Fine Jewellery

Everybody’s talking about the return of the Tank à Guichets, but I’m not over Cartier’s Tressage collection

In the world of Cartier, time is never linear. It twists, leaps, and refracts – turning gold into gesture, a panther into poetry. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the Maison reveals a suite of creations that continue its legacy of metamorphosis: watches that behave like jewellery, jewellery that dares to tell the time.

From the architectural elegance of the Tank à Guichets to the textured opulence of the Panthère and the sculptural brilliance of Tressage, each piece is an invitation into Cartier’s most alchemical design universe yet.

 

Tressage: The watch as woven sculpture

A true fusion of watch and jewellery, the Tressage collection pays tribute to Jeanne Toussaint’s legacy with audacity and grace. Here, gold isn’t just cast – it’s woven. The watch takes on volume and rhythm, with two twists of precious metal and pavé diamonds framing a rectangular dial. On one side, smooth gadroons glint with warmth; on the other, vertical brancards cut through like architecture.

Choose your finish: yellow gold with black lacquer and strap for a bold, modernist edge; or opt for the white gold, sapphire, and diamond variation, where shimmer flows from dial to strap like silk spun from stone. Each watch includes two interchangeable leather straps—because style, like time, should be lived in layers.

 

The Tank à Guichets: A minimalist’s dream in motion

First introduced in 1928 and reborn this year under the Cartier Privé banner, the Tank à Guichets redefines digital timekeeping – no hands, no fuss, just two clean apertures. Hours at 12, minutes at six. The rest? A seamless gold or platinum canvas that wears like sculpture.

This year’s iterations honour the codes of the original while introducing new stylistic energy. The case is brushed and satin-finished, contrasted with polished horizontal brancards that elongate the silhouette. Available in yellow gold with green accents, rose gold with grey, and two platinum versions – one classic, one off-kilter with angled apertures for a dose of 1930s avant-garde flair. Each is powered by the hand-wound 9755 MC calibre, a quiet triumph of internal architecture.

 

Panthère de Cartier: Where feline grace meets graphic excess

Always more than a watch, the Panthère has long been Cartier’s most sensual timepiece – and in 2025, it’s dialled up to its most expressive form. A bold interplay of zebra and tiger motifs in lacquer, diamond pavé, and spessartite stones creates a coat that’s wild but refined. It’s animal print made abstract – an homage to Cartier’s "magicien" spirit.

The snow-set dial shimmers with 145 diamonds; the bracelet unfolds with a mix of hand-applied lacquer and over 300 individually set stones. Then come the semi-paved variations in rose and yellow gold, where gradients of brilliance trace the links of the bracelet like sunlight across skin. Elegant, radiant, and utterly feline.

 

Panthère Jewellery Watch: Two souls, one creation

Cartier’s final flourish is the Panthère Jewellery Watch – a sculptural marvel and a love letter to duality. Part bracelet, part timepiece, it plays with perspective: a lifelike three-dimensional panther crouches on one side of the wrist, ready to pounce, while a delicate dial sparkles on the other. In yellow or white gold, this “Toi & Moi” piece reimagines the panther with exquisite realism – tsavorite eyes, onyx nose, even paw pads rendered in intricate detail.

The white gold version, with over 1100 diamonds and Cartier’s rare fur-setting technique, is pure theatre. It took 230 hours to create. And yet, it feels effortless – because at Cartier, glamour and craftsmanship are never mutually exclusive.

 

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