While the scent of petrichor might not have filled the air in London this evening, you’d best bring your trench coat – and do bring your student ID if you have one. Because for Burberry’s spring summer 2027 show, the runway found itself within the halls of Chelsea College of Arts, UAL, in London.

It was one of Daniel Lee’s more eccentric collections for the heritage house. But perhaps the most compelling part of the collection was his muse and collaborator, British textile designer Celia Birtwell. Known throughout the ’60s and ’70s for her hand-drawn floral textiles, Birtwell often turned to the likes of Ossie Clark and David Hockney for inspiration. Lee’s decision to bring Birtwell into the Burberry fold brought a certain zest to the collection, her colourful, free-spirited textiles offering a freer sensibility against the house’s typically earthy codes.

The collection was lived-in. It felt more youthful, or, as Lee described it in the show notes, an exercise in “intentional imperfection”. He played with an idea every British person – and perhaps anyone who has truly loved their clothes – understands: that the best garments are the ones you actually live in.

As for the colour and floral motifs, that’s where Birtwell's touch came in, bringing her hand-drawn, irregular flower patterns to the collection. She even designed her own imperfect interpretation of Burberry’s house check – a fun take on heritage, with Lee deliberately disturbing the neatness of one of the house’s most recognisable codes.

There were floral shirts, strapped clogs, chiffon dresses, stripes, denim and colour, alongside technical outerwear, climbing-inspired footwear and contemporary streetwear. Raincoats and, of course, trench coats were all part of the mix, as was a coat covered in multi-coloured smiling faces and beaded flowers. And making his runway debut was none other than British artist Central Cee, wearing jeans slung so low that, frankly, it was difficult to look anywhere else.

Since Daniel Lee took over the creative direction of the house, we’ve been seeing Burberry in a new light. It remains unmistakably British and deeply rooted in its heritage, but without leaning too heavily on nostalgia. Instead, Lee’s Burberry draws its energy from contemporary Britain – its people, culture and evolving sense of identity.