It's a good time to be shopping for fragrance. The category is exploding — it's partly due to TikTok, but also the current financial climate and a phenomenon known as 'the lipstick effect' which is quickly becoming 'the perfume effect'.
The lipstick effect has historically shown that women turn to smaller luxuries, such as lipstick, to treat themselves in times of economic downturn. But instead of makeup, people are buying up perfume. It lets us tap into a luxury brand experience, while also leaning into self expression. The way we smell in the world says a lot about our taste and stylistic preferences. It can also be wonderfully comforting.
Because of this growth, brands are also getting really creative when it comes to new launches. Whether it's an old classic that's been made modern, a new collection, an edgy note profile or a brand you've never heard of, there's so many ways to smell good right now, it's almost overwhelming. But I've done the research, and curated the best new scent-related news for you here.
Merit announce their debut fragrance...
The team at Merit have been working on their debut fragrance since 2021, and later this month on 22 October, we'll be able to finally get our hands on it: Retrospect Extrait de Parfum. It's a scent said to evolve throughout the day – starting fresh and soft, transitioning to floral, and ending with warm, sexy notes of moss, musk, and vanilla. Inspired by the modern woman’s dynamic life, the fragrance is designed to move seamlessly from day to night, reflecting the various roles women play throughout the day.
A Diptyque collection inspired by coral, water lily and mother of pearl...
Diptyque rarely moves from its signature oval bottle, but Les Essences de Diptyque serves up a new look and a new collection of fragrances. There's five in the lineup, all inspired by natural materials: coral, pearl, bark, water lily and desert rose. My pick is Rose Roche, a woody, mineral rose that smells more like the desert than it does a garden. Also, notice the oval in the centre of the rectangular flacon... a special nod to its original shape.
Byredo's first and only new fragrance all year...
Byredo don't launch new scents very often, so Desert Dawn is a big deal. It's not inspired by the desert in a literal sense, instead it's about an internal landscape one can tap into to inspire creativity or special ideas (a thoughtful nod to the idea of 'dawn', sunrise or breakthrough). It's dry, spicy and boyish, made up of sandalwood, cedarwood, cardamom, rose, vetiver and papyrus.
A limited Le Labo City Exclusive that smells like coriander...
People plan their year around the Le Labo City Exclusives and this one is divisive. Inspired by Mexico City, Coriandre 39 is zingy, crisp and aldehydic. There's also plenty of musk, green florals and watery notes, a perfect push-pull of tranquil and vibrant. Best worn in the sun with a side of mezcal.
Coriandre 39 is only available until the end of September, but can be refilled in selected Le Labo stores globally from that point. If you want it, get one now.
The original Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrance is back and it smells like skin...
When people think of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, they think of Baccarat Rouge, but A Part Of Me, or APOM, was one of his earliest blockbusters. Originally launched back in 2009 as a male female duo, the new scent is a merger of the two. It's an ambery, flowery, fougère kind of perfume — one that feels familiar when you wear it, even if you're only trying it for the first time. It's a Baccarat Rouge antithesis in the best possible way; one for the minimalists among us.
Estée Lauder's Legacy fragrance line has been updated by the man who gave us Portrait of a Lady...
Estée Lauder's work in fragrance changed the industry and consumer behaviour — she pioneered some of the best-selling scents of all time and encouraged women to buy perfume for themselves (and not receive it as a gift). You'll know the names that make up her Legacy collection: White Linen, Knowing, Estée... but what you might not know is that they've recently been reimagined by Frederic Malle. Known as a 'perfume editor', Malle recently departed his eponymous brand to work on other projects, namely the reinvention of these Lauder classics. Malle is the name behind modern masterpieces like Carnal Flower and Portrait of a Lady, so you know this update is going to be good. My pick is Azurée, a refined, sexy interpretation of warm skin under the Mediterranean sun.
The niche French brand everyone is about to be wearing...
If you haven't heard of Maison Louis Marie, put it on your radar. The brand story starts with Louis Marie Aubert du Petit Thouars, a French botanist and Académie des Sciences member who pioneered the study of plant specimens. Some 200 years on, Marie du Petit Thouars took her family history and intricate knowledge of plants and turned it into a luxury niche perfume house. Pre perfume, Marie also worked as the style editor at the London Sunday Times, and a fine art photographer, so the brand has a chicness about it that's hard to ignore. While each scent is really beautiful I love Bois de Ballencourt. It's inspired by the Petit Thouars family home, and the surrounding forest (one walk in particular, affectionately referred to as 'lover's lane'). It's Earthy and woody: cinnamon, cedar and vetiver.
A boutique Australian fragrance that smells like Aurora Australis...
Australian fragrance brands often fall into the beachy category but Goldfield & Banks couldn't be cooler. Mystic Bliss is the olfactive interpretation of a starry night sky in Tasmania: powdery, incense, a little bit witchy. It's made using 25% botanical essences (fun fact, the brand formulate in a way to withstand Australian humidity), including notes like native kunzea, mint, clary sage, caramel and orris. It's really, really delicious.
Images: Le Labo, Byredo