Aya Murai, the Paris-based makeup artist believes less is more, keeps Egyptian Magic cream close at hand, and once watched Rosamund Pike dance so beautifully on set that the whole crew broke into applause.
How were you introduced to makeup?
As a child, I used to play with my mother’s makeup with a friend my age – we were always putting on lipstick, blush, even trying on her oversized high heels. It was so much fun to ‘transform’ myself. I think that’s how my interest in beauty started.
Who else shaped your feelings towards beauty and makeup early on?
When I was a teenager in Japan, I really loved this makeup artist named YuKi – her work was always in ads and magazines. I figured out where she studied makeup in France, and it inspired me to enrol at the same school.
What about now, who do you admire?
Christelle Cocquet, who I assisted for over seven years, has been both my mentor and inspiration. Everything she creates continues to influence me.
How would you describe your makeup ethos?
Less is more. I always think about how to enhance each model’s natural beauty in the most effective way.
Are you self-taught, or did you undergo formal training?
I graduated from a beauty school in Japan and later studied at Christian Chauveau in France.
Have you had any incredible career defining moments?
It’s hard to pick just one, but assisting Christelle on the launch campaign for Hermès Beauty was unforgettable. Seeing the large billboards in public was incredibly moving.
What do you think is the purpose of makeup?
Makeup should be a tool that gives confidence to the person wearing it.
How would you describe your aesthetic or artistry signature?
Natural, effortless, playful.
If you could swap bodies with any makeup artist for a day who would it be?
There are so many great artists I admire, I honestly couldn’t choose just one.
What’s been your most memorable day on set?
During a Dior bag video shoot, Rosamund Pike performed a classical dance to music in front of the camera. When the music stopped, the entire crew applauded – it was magical.
What is the single best makeup look of all time, in your opinion?
The single best makeup look is Pat McGrath’s work for the cover of ID Magazine, September 2004. Jessica Stam shot by Richard Burbridge. It’s incredible.
And the best film makeup?
The Japanese film Sayuri.
What makeup rule annoys you the most?
Strange preconceptions like ‘this colour doesn’t suit Japanese people’.
If you could only have five products in your kit, what would they be?
Egyptian Magic cream, Homéoplasmine, M.A.C Cosmetics eyeshadow in Coquette, eyebrow fixing gel and a Hakuhodo brush.
What do you think is more important – technical skills, or having a creative vision?
Technical skills are essential, but balance is the key to everything.
What does your creative process look like?
I start by reviewing the photographer or client’s concept and mood board, study the model’s features, then develop makeup ideas accordingly.
Do you ever use face charts?
Not often.
Who would be your dream face to make up?
Daria Werbowy. Her poised beauty really captivates me.
What about lips – who has the best in the industry?
Ho-yeon , who appeared in Squid Game. Her lips are soft, full and perfect.
What lipstick shade would you paint on them, given the opportunity?
A deep shade like Bordeaux or chestnut red.
What’s the most challenging aspect of being a makeup artist?
Creating the best possible look under tight hair and makeup schedules.
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And the most rewarding?
Seeing my work unexpectedly in public is always special.
What motivates you to keep going?
Having goals and wanting to do more interesting work keeps me going.
The single best piece of makeup advice you can share with aspiring artists?
Keep an open mind and stay curious about everything.
If you had three minutes to do your own face, what would you apply?
Concealer, mascara and brow fixing gel.
What’s the last beauty product you purchased?
I bought some Egyptian Magic, Dejavu mascara and a Glossier foundation.
What’s inspiring you right now?
Great conversations with my multi-talented friends about creativity, art and making things – not necessarily just makeup.
The beauty Instagram accounts everyone should follow?
Pat McGrath, Christelle Cocquet are my favourite artists. And I love the account @muaawesome.
