We touched down in Hong Kong at 2pm, the air was hot and dense, it felt like the city was wrapping us up in a warm embrace. We had left rainy London 12 hours earlier, and the flight was back-to-back Sex And The City and glasses of white wine which induced enough hours of sleep to feel well rested.

I was in town for Hong Kong’s Art Basel with Charles and Keith — I’d never been to Asia before, so I was excited to see how the art here compares to that of London or the Miami art Basel which I had shown work in the year previous. But first, a free afternoon. I had brought along my friend Milkie, a Northern Irish rock star in a band called Wargasm. We are chalk and cheese but it works. Don’t let her punk exterior fool you: she loves scheduled fun and she’d researched and memorised every Google review of the ‘’must see’’ locations in Hong Kong.

Arriving in Hong Kong

We were welcomed by some of the Charles and Keith team, along with a selection of their newest accessories. I decided to take the Enola Bag out for the afternoon, a 60s style that felt just right for city wandering. We stepped out of the Murray (a very nice hotel by the way) and into Hong Kong Park. The verdant haven was engulfed by structures reaching their glassy heads into the clouds. The juxtaposition was stark and beautiful. We ate at the park restaurant then jumped on the peak tram and sat next to a boy who attempted to flirt with Milkie in broken English. At the top was a riot of arcades, neon lights, plastic waving cats and fridge magnets. I bought as many little things as I could fit into my handbag for the people back home. The plastic cat swings its arm on my dressing table as I write this. The view point was breathtaking, it was dark by now and the city lights burned effervescently against the night.

Day Two

The next day we were out the door by 10am and heading to Duddell’s for lunch and an artist talk with Robert Zhao. His installation was featured at the Charles and Keith store as part of their Art Basel presentation; a lone cow on a Hong Kong beach — surreal, peaceful and stoic. A stark contrast to the noise of the city just outside. The tables were set up with hand crafted fragrances by Floriography. The scent was broken down into individual notes, housed in delicate glass jars with bulb atomisers. It was spectacular.

The talk with Robert was intimate and he spoke about his practice with gentle clarity. Although clearly felt more at ease praising Jo Shaw of Floriography’s work, describing her practice and her studio, and the way that she’d organised her glass scent bottles alphabetically. It was a small and humble moment of self deflection that resonated with the observational nature of his own art.

Day Three

M+ Museum gave us a guided tour of Chinese art the next morning and, although not strictly part of the tour, from the corner of the room we were in, some hand drawn plans for neon signs caught my eye. As a painter who works with a lot of graphics and typography, it pleased me.

Art Basel was a knot of well dressed, champagne-sipping art enthusiasts. I always find it difficult to take in the sea of colour and a thousand artistic voices, each vying to make the most noise in their allotted white walled booth. One painter’s work cut through the noise. I stood in front of this self portrait. The work had so much motion, as if it were buzzing with some kind of electrical energy. The artist came over, bowed and beamed at me. Gesturing to the painting, she told me it was her. I could already tell — the resemblance was striking. Her name is Erika Matsui, and she’s from Tokyo. You should check her out!

The evening deepened and we headed to Soho house for a final farewell to the other girls and the Charles and Keith team. Each of them represented a different city — Seoul, Sydney, Tokyo, Singapore, each with a style distinctly their own. Even their choice of Charles and Keith bags felt like an extension of their hometowns. I couldn't help but feel a little less cool in their presence. We drank and talked and the city stretched out beyond us.

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Images: @char.lotterose