It's not a secret that air pollution damages your skin. Over the past few decades the science has shown this time and time again.
As just one example, a recent peer-reviewed paper explains how air pollution negatively affects the function and physiology of the skin. To paraphrase, the paper determines that air pollution – and the way it interacts with sensors in our skin cells – is "capable of activating oxidative stress responses and triggering inflammatory and immunosuppressive cytokine production in the skin." And, inflammation and oxidative stress are of course linked to everything from disease to ageing. It's not good news.
Enter anti-pollution skincare, which despite its gimmicky sounding name might actually offer a reasonable solution to fighting pollution-based skin damage.
So what exactly is "anti-pollution" skincare?
To understand how anti-pollution skincare works, you first need to understand how exactly oxidative stress works. It happens when unstable atoms called free radicals attack and damage our cells. These free radicals can be triggered in your skin and body by everything from the sun, smoking, a low-nutrient diet – and of course, air pollution. But you can defend against oxidative stress with a compound most of us would already know: antioxidants. They protect us by stabilising free radicals, and preventing the cell damage they would ordinarily cause.
Anti-pollution skincare systems are products that have a high concentration of these protective antioxidants. They're typically designed to be applied during the day when your skin is exposed to the stressors of modern life. While all brands will have a slightly different interpretation of anti-pollution, this is generally what the term means.
Does anti-pollution skincare actually work?
Whether or not a product marketed as "anti-pollution" actually works varies from product to product. It depends on the quality and concentrations of ingredients used in the formulas, and also the scientific processes used to stabilise those ingredients and make them perform. This is not something that is easy to spot just by looking at a bottle.
Certain antioxidants, like vitamin C are notoriously tricky to stabilise. So, an effective product needs an expert formulation team and good-quality base ingredients that don't degrade or oxidise. Looking for reputable, science-led brands that have been formulated in collaboration with dermatologists is key to efficacy.
What to look for, on and off the label
Some of the most common antioxidants for daytime use in skincare are vitamin C, niacinamide or vitamin B, vitamin E, ferulic acid, resveratrol, green tea and polyphenols. Seeing these names in an ingredients list is a good sign that your product could be "anti-pollution".
To get a indication of whether the percentages are high enough to have a therapeutic effect on the skin, colour can be a useful tool. Niacinamide, resveratrol and ferulic acid are clear in colour. Although ferulic acid can sometimes be a pale yellow. Vitamin C, vitamin E and green tea extract are more often a pale yellow. Vitamin E can also be a dark amber, but for vitamin C this means it has oxidised. Green tea can also be green (of course).
If you're using a serum or cream with a combination of these ingredients, a yellow could suggest these ingredients are there in a therapeutic percentage. If the serum or cream has no colour, the ingredient may be there in lower doses. Although, if you're using a serum with just niacinamide or resveratrol, expect it to be clear as these two have no colour.
Anti-pollution skincare to know
Skin Regimen
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A brand with an intentional and pared back range of products, but all of them punch above their weight. The brand boasts 12 years of comprehensive scientific research in skin longevity. In particular the Detox Cleanser, the Microalgae Energising Essence, the Tripeptide Gel Cream and Vitamin C serum are foundational anti-pollution products to look out for.
Murad's Environmental Shield range
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Murad is undeniably a science-led brand, that focuses on formulation and history that dates back to the 80s. The Environmental Shield range is easy to spot, as it's colour-coded orange. They are largely vitamin C-led, so they're great for achieving a brightening effect. The specific percentages aren't listed, but the products do have substantial clinical backing. This is a good brand to start with if you're new to active ingredients.
Aesop's Parsley Seed range
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Aesop has always been a brand led by botanicals, so it makes sense that it would source its hero antioxidant from plants. The Parsley Seed range was designed for "city dwellers", people spending time in high stress and high pollution environments. It's light-weight and includes a range of other fortifying ingredients. It's also a great choice for those who are intolerant to vitamin C.
Dr. Barbara Sturm
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Dr. Barbara Sturm is a German doctor and found of her eponymous brand. Backed by 25 years of science research, her products have garnered global recognition for their targeted approach to combating inflammation. In particular, her anti-pollution drops are regarded as one of the hero products of her range.
Ultraceuticals Daily Defence range
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Ultraceuticals was founded by cosmetic physician Dr. Geoffrey Heber in the 1980s, and today Ultraceuticals is one of the more and reliable trusted skincare brands on the market. The Daily Defence range has been specifically formulated to protect skin against environmental damage with a targeted complex of antioxidants. It includes a selection of sunscreen moisturisers for different skin types, an antioxidant primer to sit underneath and a restoring cream for night time.
Aesthetics RX
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AestheticsRX is a cosmeceutical-grade brand that was originally designed as a post medical or dermal procedure support treatment. It has a rather expansive product range, so it's better for those who want to get specific with their routine and ingredients. The anti-pollution cleansing oil, vitamin B serum, vitamin C serum and Everbright Day & Night cream are hero products for environmental and pollution protection.
Bespoke Skin Technology
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This is a brand that has less than five products in its range. It's deliberate. This is one of the simplest and easiest skincare brands to use, as each product is designed to be a one-and-done, do-it-all. No need for 12-steps. In particular, the anti-pollution cleanser and Luminosity Serum are products to look out for. The Luminosity Serum uses a powerful vitamin C alternative, so another good choice for those intolerant to vitamin C.
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Featured products are selected editorially. Our opinions are our own. Occasionally, we may receive a standard affiliate partner fee if you make a purchase using the links we feature.
