Pulling back the curtain on one of the most the controversial clothing empires of the 200s, Netflix’s newest documentary, Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel, reveals some uncomfortable truths about a brand that once dominated our wardrobes. Behind the hype of the brand's had-to-have basics and provocative campaigns, was an apparent web of manipulation, exploitation, and cult-like control. Haven't seen it yet? Allow us to catch you up, with the biggest revelations from Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel, below.
1. A toxic work culture
Arguably the biggest allegation to arise from the documentary is that American Apparel's founder, Dov Charney, cultivated a workplace environment that blurred professional boundaries.
Former employees recount alleged experiences of coercion and exploitation. Among some of the allegations, former employees said that, when they were hired, they were allegedly given a Blackberry so they could always be on call (Charney's work ethic was notoriously stringent), a copy of Robert Greene’s book The 48 Laws of Power and a vibrator. In testament to these unusual working conditions, one former worker said she was once allegedly forced to work a 26-hour shift. Another clip allegedly captured Charney walking around naked in front of two female employees.They also said that Charney was allegedly verbally abusive, even alleging that he would single out an employee as "fool of the week" during weekly meetings. As one former employee, Jonny, put it: “I’ll probably be in therapy until the day that I die.”
Despite numerous harassment complaints—often silenced by nondisclosure agreements—Charney denied wrongdoing but was ultimately fired in 2014 after damaging evidence was discovered by the board .
2. The illusion of ethical labour
"Made in USA" became a cornerstone of American Apparel’s branding, promoting itself as an ethical alternative in a fast fashion landscape defined by overseas sweatshops. But the documentary calls that promise into question. While workers were paid above minimum wage and operated out of a sprawling Los Angeles factory, former employees and journalists featured in the documentary highlight how the company’s labor ethics didn’t always allegedly live up to its messaging. Reports of alleged emotional manipulation, high-pressure environments, and exploitative dynamics suggest that ethical manufacturing isn't just about geography, but about power structures, too.
3. Financial and corporate chaos
The documentary also unpacks the company's alleged turbulent finances. Despite massive cultural relevance in the 2000s, American Apparel spiralled into debt, largely due to Charney’s unorthodox leadership style, which resulted in mounting legal battles, and a boardroom increasingly at odds with its CEO. A year after Charney was fired, the brand filed for bankruptcy in 2015 and was eventually sold to Gildan Activewear, which today operates the business as an online-only retailer.
Where is Dov Charney now?
Since being ousted from American Apparel, Charney has attempted to rebuild his fashion empire, launching a new business under the name Los Angeles Apparel. The company, which began in 2016, occupies the same factory space once used by American Apparel and follows a similar ethos: basics, made in the U.S., with provocative marketing. Charney continues to deny all allegations of misconduct. More recently, he's been linked to controversial collaborations, including reportedly producing Kanye West’s "White Lives Matter" shirts for Yeezy — further cementing his reputation as a figure who allegedly thrives on provocation, regardless of the fallout.
