Jonny Johansson, creative director and co-founder of Acne Studios, has always been one to challenge conventions. The house thrives on contrast, where raw meets refined, and construction collides with deconstruction. Beauty emerges in the awkward, the undone, the unexpected. For Acne Studios fall winter 25, Johansson amplified this duality, staging a show that felt like a battle of forces: nature against industry, wilderness meeting structure, softness woven into something sharp.

The runway was an eerie metallic dreamscape, reminiscent of a city skyline distorted through a post-apocalyptic lens. Swedish design studio Front brought the vision to life, crafting industrial skyscrapers alongside jagged rock formations. The setting reflected Johansson’s fascination with the spaces we inhabit, both built and organic, imposing yet fragile.

As the show began, Björk’s Human Behaviour remix filled through the space. Deep, guttural beats set the tone and, when the first looks emerged, tension rippled through the collection. Oversized shearling coats wrapped around the body in cocoon-like proportions. Razor-sharp tailoring cut through the softness, in the form of slim-cut trousers, cinched high-neck jackets, and cropped wool blazers detailed with industrial zippers. Acne Studios revived the no-pants silhouette, best known from Miu Miu’s collections seasons ago, giving it a tougher, sculptural edge.

Johansson also drew from the ’70s and late ’80s, twisting glam rock and disco influences into something modern. The references appeared in tight tops, loose bottoms, and playful heart-shaped belts. These nods to indulgence and excess felt subversive rather than nostalgic.

Accessories pushed the theme further, with boxy loafers bristled with oversized studs. Boots sharpened into sleek, curved heels. Ballet flats carried the weight of combat shoes. Industrial buckles turned minimal, cinched sculptural layers high on the waist, while vintage aviator-style headgear was the final touch between the past and future.

Colour played a critical role. Deep charcoals, weathered greys, and earthy browns set the foundation of urban decay in fabric form. But these tones were disrupted by flashes of rusted orange and reds, saturated purples, and neon blue, evoking almost flashes of artificial city lights against a grey skyline. Softer hues emerged in the final looks. Blush pinks and icy blues, adding a fragile beauty to the industrial backdrop.

Once again, Johansson distilled the essence of Acne Studios, where duality was not just explored but elevated, and beauty revealed itself in the tension between contrasts.